Randy Caparoso came to Memphis early in April to build the wine program for Circa, John Bragg’s restaurant Downtown. Caparoso had 30 years experience in food, wine and restaurant management, and he created a unique and immensely gratifying wine list for the restaurant.
We interviewed Caparoso about his philosoply of wine and and food and wine pairing and posted the result to this blog on August 23, shortly after the restaurant opened. We asked Caparoso then about his commitment to Memphis and Circa, and he replied, “Circa is my job and my commitment.”
We learned by email a few minutes ago that Caparoso is leaving the restaurant and the city. His (brief) farewell and his paean to local indigenous food are here at culinarywineandfood.
Responses to “Ciao, Randy”
November 14th, 2007 at 3:59 pm
Everyone click on the link to Randy’s blog. It’s interesting that the restaurants he talks about missing in Memphis are all simple places. It brings to mind two conversations I had this weekend and another that Fredric and I just had. Actually, it’s the same conversation:
Why are so many upscale restaurants all the same? Yawn.
And does anyone know where Williams St. Grocery is? (I’m guessing the “St.” stands for “street,” although FK and I both were thinking it was “saint” at first.)
November 14th, 2007 at 10:58 pm
Am I the only white guy that wanders to all the little groceries in odd places for soul food?
I guess it comes from chasing my dad down when he worked on the railroad and eating at some of the dead end road neighborhood groceries.
Williams Street is just west of Elmwood. the store is between Mississippi BLVD and Elmwood, just north of Lemoyne-Owen.
I am guessing it was one of those old Weowna Stores or an old Monteisi State Food Store.
November 15th, 2007 at 1:35 pm
I have lived in Memphis for two years and we company comes to town we go to the same places. Reading the blog and comments made me want to add my two cents.
Randy is a nice gentleman, but I do not share the same views as some at the CA. I feel his list was hyped like the restaurant.
Not all upscale joints are the same , as I found out last night. And yes sometimes we have to go out of our way to get to them.
Last week I read in the paper of a wine dinner taking place at Equestria. It was a Titus dinner. Having been to the vineyard, i have falling in love with the wine. I invited a couple with us, only for her to tell me how horrible the place was and she had not been there in two years.
I go to 10 win dinners a year (wish there was more in Memphis). This was by far the best I have been to in a very long time. The chef did an outstanding pairing he food with wine. The duo of duck was one of the best dishes I have eaten. The staff was visible and attentive. all questions were answered on the spot. Everyone knew exactly what they were doing.
I spoke with both managers ( one was always visible)in which they informed me the establishment has been “reinvented”. A new chef, general manager, staff, and remodel had taken place in the past 3 months. After looking over the list, I formed the opinion tha this is the best wine list in the city. And yes I am including the circa list. There are some hidden gems at great values. At the end of my conversation with the general manager, he smiled, thanked me and invited me to come out during the day to walk the winter garden and feed the peacocks. Last night I could have sworn I was in New York, L A , Chicago, or San Francisco. I was not. I was in Memphis.
November 15th, 2007 at 2:25 pm
I am of the same mindset as Fred, altho I do tend toward going into some areas with caution. The very best muffalettas I ever ate in my life came from Arabi Grocery, in one of the suburbs of New Orleans. People can talk about Central Grocery all they want to, but they became quite commercial due to proximity to the French Quarter & all the tourist hype. The idea of frequenting out of the way places for special things was brought out in Jennifer’s series about food available from small neighborhood grocery stores. OK, Jennifer - when do we get the next round?
I wish Randy well in his next endeavor.
November 15th, 2007 at 6:26 pm
I think urban groceries is round two. Sounds like a nice spring story to me…
November 15th, 2007 at 6:30 pm
Its not just in little stores in an urban area, I had the best ham sandwich at a store in the middle of nowhere in Western kentucky (Jackson Purchase Area).
November 15th, 2007 at 11:52 pm
Thanks everyone. I truly enjoyed my stay here in Memphis, and I appreciate the kind words from those of you supportive of the unusual things started at Circa. When Fredric asked about my stay last August, I spoke truthfully from the heart. I came to Memphis with a firm commitment in the way of a contract to assist John Bragg in the opening of his restaurant; something I’ve done in over 25 other cities with other chef/owners. I honored that commitment, just as John honored his contract with me. I do these things because I love new places, faces and foods, and my stay in Memphis has been more pleasurable than most of those other cities.
John is a hard working, sincere fellow, and he is also one of yours; fully deserving of support and encouragement, as do all of your local businessmen and restaurateurs making a gallant “go” at it. Perhaps some of you may have thought our opening pronouncements — that Chef Bragg was cooking as a Memphis, Tennessee native with the French techniques in which he was trained — constituted “hype,” but really: how can it be hype when that’s exactly what it is? He calls it “Circa” because he endeavors to to achieve memorable experiences. Should he had called it “Forgettable” to tell you that it isn’t worth the effort? Would that make a Memphian proud of another Memphian?
Williams Street Grocery, in the same vein, is exactly what it is: a place to pick up some authentic soul food of the type that appeals to the neighborhood. I could say that on some days I found their cornbread to be dry, or their chitterlings too vinegary, but what’s the point? I don’t find this place to be “simple” or boring because I never try to define it. I just go there, pick up my plates, and I eat ‘em. I think that if you truly love food (just as if you truly love wine), there really should be no issues. They work just as hard at Williams Street Grocery as they do in any other restaurant, from Rendevous to Circa (or the Chez Panisses and Le Bernardins of the world where I have also found many occasions to dine), and so they deserve the enthusiastic support of their community. I know I did my part, during my all-too-brief stay.
I hope to hear from some of you in my own blogspot; but in the meantime, God bless you all!
November 20th, 2007 at 7:57 pm
Thanks, Randy. Good blog post and good comment here. I love seeing those who make their living in food embracing the community like that.
FYI I heard a few months ago that Shaggy Duffy formerly with Karen Carrier’s group is cooking at Equestria.
November 20th, 2007 at 8:00 pm
Gregg–Shaggy’s been there a good while. We reported it when it happened. One or two posts on the blog have good things to say about what he’s doing at Equestria.



10 comment.