A thoughtful reader emailed to tell me about Big Bill’s Barbeque where, he said, “I think I had 
the best bbq sandwich that I have ever eaten. (I am a past volunteer chairman for MIM and have sampled the contestant bbq many times.)”
Well, I’m not stupid, at least not about food discoveries. So I went out to Big Bill’s today. It’s in Raleigh, at the intersection of Ramill Road and Yale, in a small, well-worn free-standing building. The place is friendly. There’s a television going all the time. A regular barbecue sandwich, with one side order and a drink, costs $4.99.
Best I have ever eaten? I dunno. So many years, so much barbecue. But it’s a terrific sandwich, chopped (not pulled), meaty and flavorful, moderately smoky, with enough outer meat to give each bite a tiny crunch. The mild sauce is lightly spicy, just enough to bring a little nod of recognition, while the sauce is enlivened by a zing of vinegar. They ask if you want cole slaw on your sandwich — which of course I did; this is Memphis, right? — but I could have used more; you might ask for extra. Served on a conventional hamburger bun, this is a barbecue sandwich that by the time you’ve worked your way through half of it is beginning to dissolve into a squish of bread, meat and sauce. YUM! You’ll use plenty of those little napkins.
The beans were good too.
I’ll go back soon to sample ribs.
Big Bill’s is at 3530 Ramill Road near Yale. It’s open 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday. Call 388-9038.
First Bites
Responses to “First Bite: Big Bill’s Barbeque”
October 29th, 2007 at 4:18 pm
Funny, the best bar-b-que spouse & I have ever had is also at “Bill’s”, but in Henderson, TN.
October 29th, 2007 at 6:18 pm
He was her man…but he done her wrong…BRENDA! Was what he did so bad that you had to bar-b-que him?!
October 29th, 2007 at 11:24 pm
Tried it Saturday afternoon, and it wasn’t bad–kinda an A&R Light. Should have been better, as I was starving from having to wait three hours to get a tire fixed, and as Cervantes (and others, apparently) said, “Hunger is the best sauce in the world.”
The tamales, which I didn’t try, looked GREAT, however.
October 30th, 2007 at 10:08 am
Funny that you should put it that way, “A&R Light,” since the owner of Big Bill’s was part of the A&R family for a while (married a daughter).
October 30th, 2007 at 10:50 pm
Fredric,
It might be a worthwhile exercise (or not) to try to come up with a Memphis barbecue family tree and see where it leads. Between the Neely family, the A&R folks, John Wills (served at Romeo’s pizza in another life), John Willingham (served at Willie Moffats in another life, but maybe not anymore), etc., there might be some insight into our collective barbecue heritage–a slow-smoked pork Adam and Eve, so to speak.
6 comment.