Road house/fish camp atmosphere is not my favorite decor, even for downhome dining — unless I’m, you know, at a road house or a fish camp, two unlikely prospects — but Flying Fish, owned by the group that owns Flying Saucer down the street on Second, has the style down pat, so the place is sort of funky/junky/ironic, and even if you don’t care for “fast casual” service — you order at a counter and a waiter brings the food to the table — the place ticks along like clockwork. I had a terrific bowl of dark, flavorful seafood gumbo; a “BBQ” shrimp po’boy of which I expected greater things, and a plate that brings a trio of fish tacos accompanied by rice and beans. The tacos are heaped (as you can see in this image) with good cole slaw and a fresh-tasting pico de gallo. The result is pretty good, coming midway on the chart of my gustatory pleasure principle between the gumbo and the shrimp po’boy. Interestingly, you can pay a dollar more ($8.99 instead of $7.99) and trade-up to actual tilapia instead of whatever anonymous finny friend is utilized. What I must return to the restaurant for are catfish, which is fried or grilled, and shrimp and oysters, now that we’re in an “R” month. Flying Fish is — and I’m quoting from the take-out menu — “Open 11-10 Daily 7 Days a Week.” Yeah, me too, I’m always forgetting what daily means. The address is 105 S. Second. Call 522-8228.