Sigh. Those Yankees.

Just a few nights ago I was talking to a local chef about how good we’ve got it down here. Truly, most food in the South is tasty. We’re a people who know that if a little more salt won’t do the trick, a little butter likely will. We’re not shy with the seasonings, not afraid to eat pieces of the pig that would make a self-respecting Northerner cringe. And tell me someplace else where you can get cornbread like you can get here. And so on–you get my point. The reason we were talking about this was that she mentioned how insulting it was to go into places in Chicago that advertised Memphis-style ribs, and all it took was one taste to know the ribs were made by someone who’d never come across our bridge.

So when I came across Gael Greene’s review of Justin Timberlake’s new place, I thought I’d share it with you. A couple of questions: How could you even fry a ripe tomato? And while I love mac and cheese–with ribs? Come on, that just ain’t right… And I will spare everyone my thoughts on barbecue nachos, other than to say vomit.

The review was in New York Magazine on Tuesday:

“Probably you Justin Timberlake fans (plus the guys who’d follow you anywhere) will haunt Southern Hospitality hoping to spot your crush sipping Mountain Dew in a back booth of this raffish joint he’s fronting. There’s no sign of that hottie tonight as we brave the tussle and eighties disco throbbing full blast.

Just a clutch of babes pretending to eat, an army of guys sucking beer from the bottle, and a bartender tossing cocktails. A bouncy hostess in cowboy boots trots us to a table in the rear still sticky from its previous gorge, away from the barside clot but not the roar. Cameras emerge from our pockets and start flashing. We’re immortalizing the nachos-a scary swamp (with pulled pork, $4.95 extra). Surprise: It’s edible, almost delicious. Granted, the corn bread could be sugared plastic. Biscuits taste like salty cardboard, fried green tomatoes aren’t even green. Still, I can’t stop myself from eating the stuck-together onion rings. And the crusty fried chicken is juicy and good. I urge my pals to try the smoked Memphis ribs and skip the dried-out baby backs. Everything comes on a hill of soggy French fries. Cold mac ‘n’ cheese is an insult even in junk-food heaven, but a sizzling replacement disappears in minutes. It’s impossible to predict what the kitchen will be doing a week from now. Not this pitiful peach pie, I hope. We leave, exhausted from shouting. Remorse at what I’ve consumed weighs heavily. Or is that just indigestion?”

This post has:
33 comment.
Posted in:
Southern Exposure
Share this post:
Email This Post Share on Facebook

33

Responses to “Sigh. Those Yankees.”

Randal

My AP style guide and my copy of The Elements of Style spontaneously combusted when I read the paragraphs from that review. Do they not teach complete sentences in journalism school anymore? Where there are verbs in the “sentences,” trying to keep up with the tense shifts gave me a headache.

Randal

I swear there was an “and” between the names of those two books.

Carole H

I predict this review won’t hurt Justin’s business a bit. I read somewhere that he was going to have his grandma’s blueberry dessert on the menu that they made together on TV several months back. Fans w/be flocking in there for his name, if nothing else, & if they don’t like the food they’ll just drink instead.

Don’t give up on BBQ nachos until you try the ones from Jack’s BBQ Rib Shack on Old Summer Road, Jennifer. I have been trying them at different places in an attempt to find out why everyone things they are so wonderful. The ones at Jack’s definitely are. They have BBQ sauce, tomatoes, green onions, & sour cream on them in add’n to grated cheese that isn’t the Cheez Whiz stuff. You can get them with or w/o jalapenos. I told the server that junk food doesn’t get any better than that.

Brenda

CaroleH: I have a batch of JT’s granny’s blueberry crunch cake on my counter right now…a request from my son for his b’day dinner dessert. Have you made/tried it yet? If not, it’s WONDERFUL, and I’m sure as you say will be a hit in his new restaurant.

Guy W

Sorry, but I love BBQ Nachos…. Granted I don’t eat them a lot, but I think of them as comfort food…

LL

Gael Greene, is a self-advertised sexual adventurer with music and film stars. Her notches include a one-night stand with Elvis (she does describe his room-service order). At JT’s, she is in this element, and her restaurant reviewing cred is rendered subterranean. She LIKES stuff that, in her own words, sounds disgusting. Don’t be concerned about the misrepresentation of local cuisine, Jennifer. As Carole H points out, food is incidental to the flocks, and GG represents them perfectly.

Jennifer Biggs

Just for the record, since Fredric just called me on dissing barbecue nachos, I also can’t stand barbecue pizza.

Nor will I eat a sweet potato. Hate ‘em. But I have lived here all my life, so I hope y’all will be kind. I promise, other than these aberrations, my Southern food credentials are sound. Hey, I loved pickled pig’s feet when I was a kid and I love neck bones even today…

Let’s go ahead and expand this. Come clean, people. Tell me the good ol’ Southern food you won’t eat. I’ll add to my list:
-Grits (although good cheese grits are an exception; I’m talking about the gross breakfast grits)
-Boiled okra
-Stewed tomatoes (the kind with the bread and sugar cooked in them)
-Any kind of Jello salad-NEVAH!

That’s what comes to mind right now.

GrantParish

I don’t think I am in any danger of visiting Justin’s restaurant as it violates one of my “Restaurant Rules” - Never eat at a restaurant whose reputation is about something other than the food (celebrity owner, view, musical instruments on the wall, virgin mary image on kitchen door, etc.) I developed this rule after being lured to eat at the “Oldest Italian Restaurant in San Francisco.”

It is one of many rules that have served me well over the years, like “Don’t eat at a restaurant with bus parking,” “Approach buffet with caution,” and “Avoid restaurants with gift shops.”

Brenda

Ok, Jennifer, you “promised” you had no more aberrations, but then added 4 more to your list!

My list is short:
-anything pickled, other than pickles; i.e. eggs, pig’s feet, etc.
-chitlins
-brains

Jennifer Biggs

And here I go again, Brenda! I concur with chitlins, but I tried them. I would also never eat brains (which I have not tried) although apparently my mother loved squirrel brains when she was a child. They grew up in the country. (I guess this is a good place for a “duh.”)

Never met a hushpuppy I liked, either, but I’ve got nothing against trying them. In fact, that seems like something that I should work on, come up with a good one.

Another one: Red-eye gravy.

The truth is I have pretty strong, um, ideas about the edibility or more precisely, the desirability, of foods. I’m only listing the Southern ones here. If my mother-in-law or friend and former CA food writer Chris Gang read this, they will have their two cents to add (Chris whacked me on the head with a magazine once!). Let me pre-defend myself: Anyone who knows me knows that I LOVE plenty of foods. In comparison, the list of forbidden foods (generally it’s inappropriate food combinations) is very small.

michael

Red-eye gravy? What could possibly be unappealing about red-eye gravy? I can understand someone just not really, really liking it, but in the same category as brains and boiled okra?

Jennifer Biggs

I’ll give you that it doesn’t rise to the level of squirrel brains, but coffee in gravy??? I’ve tried it twice and both times it tasted like someone poured ham grease in my coffee. Once someone made it (I don’t remember who) and once I had it in a restaurant.

Cynthia

I’m not a fan of BBQ nachos or pizza, but wouldn’t turn down a free order. I won’t eat anything pickled, other than pickles, or chitlins, giblet gravy, boiled okra, brains or liver.

I’m with Grant on “restaurant rules” and I have a rule about eating at restaurants that allow you to toss peanut shells on the floor. I like to walk around without fear of losing my footing in that mess.

I grew up in a family that had meals consisting of one meat & two veggies. Mom was adamant that you do not serve two green veggies with the same meal. My sweetheart still cannot understand why I won’t prepare both green beans and sugar snap peas for a meal.

Dawn

Hey Jennifer, you like what you like. I’ve enjoyed a few BBQ nachos from time to time, but it’s not something I’d order regularly. I grew up eating brains and eggs (on occasion), and I grew up in Cleveland, OH…that dish was prepared by my maternal grandmother from West Virginia. Probably wouldn’t touch them now, tho LOL!! Typical “Southern” eats I wont touch: chitlins, most gravies, pig feet, hocks, ears,snouts, tails,tripe/menudo, okra in anything.

Todd

I can understand new bbq food, but grits? That’s just blasphemy. You must have never had them fixed right. Grits soak up whatever flavor you put in them. So you load them up with butter and crumbled bacon. Are there any better flavors than butter and bacon?

Carole H

Guess I’m not the only chitlins hater in the bunch! I did eat a fried chitlin once just to say I did & to get my co-workers off my case. But it mostly just tasted like breading, so I was safe. The smell of boiled ones is so overwhelmingly gross that I never got past the lid of the crockpot at the soul food day luncheon. Ewwwww! I love okra, boiled or otherwise, & my dad used to eat brains & eggs. But I wouldn’t touch that or squirrel or any of the other things people snatch up out of the woods that wind up in cauldrons of mystery meat. The only kind of liver I like is liverwurst or liver cheese. And yes, like Jennifer, I enjoy so many other things that I don’t even miss liver & onions.

I don’t like coffee…there, I said it. There are too many other things I do like to make myself like that. I’m a tea drinker, be it hot or cold, & proud of it. I think red eye gravy is pretty disgusting, if not downright weird. I also don’t like cantaloupe but I do like honeydew. Other than those things, you can put just about anything in front of me & I’ll try it once. I think beef neckbones are one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. The meat is tender & it’s just like pot roast, honest. I used to buy a neck cut roast at the old Fred Montesi grocery store that predated Piggly Wiggly, but I haven’t seen that cut anywhere since, sad to say.

Cynthia, your family’s meat & two vegetables regimen reminded me of a friend whose mother insisted that it had to be a green vegetable & a yellow one. I imagine they ate a lot of carrots, corn & summer squash at their house.

Jennifer Biggs

Dawn, that’s how my mom ate brains, too–with scrambled eggs. Todd, it’s the consistency of the grits, which changes when you add cheese or eggs and bake them.

However, a post in “Foods we lie about” just brought to mind another Southern food I can’t stomach: Boiled peanuts.

Randal

I don’t know that I would have eaten brains anyway, but prions will pretty much keep me away from them from here on out.

Carole H

Brenda, I haven’t tried the blueberry crunch cake yet, but the more I hear about it, the more I know I need to. What’s another addiction among friends anyway. Justin has to do a lot of fancy dancing & working out to keep himself slim if he eats that well all the time!

chris

I’ll keep Jennifer’s food combination aversions a secret until she is ready to reveal them. I do confess to hitting her with a magazine because they strike me as totally irrational. (Now you are going to have to confess, Jen)
But I will weigh in on brains. I never ate them as a child even though fried brain sandwiches are staples in the taverns in the South St. Louis neighborhood where I grew up.
My mother told me about an article on the “best brain sandwich” in the St. Louis Post Dispatch and it turned out the tavern that won the distinction was only blocks from our old house. So on my next visit, we went and I ate one.
It was very good. I think the brains are from calves instead of pigs but I couldn’t swear to it.
They are sliced, battered and fried and then served on rye bread with a raw onion slice and dill pickle chips.
I say don’t knock it until …….
I tried boiled chitlins’ once and don’t care to have them again. Fried chitlins might be another story but I’m not anxious to seek them out.
I did try lamb guts in Provence once and also rabbit braised in its own blood. I wasn’t wild about either.

Jennifer Biggs

I’m with Randal on the prions–this is why I grind my own beef. Cow brains won’t be on my plate.

Chris hit me over the head because she was reading a recipe for a baked cranberry tart and I don’t like cooked fruit, at least not cooked in dough or a pastry. I love fruit, and I’ll eat it cooked in a savory dish, but I don’t care for fruits pies, blueberry muffins, etc. Sadly, that does include cobbler, although I’ll eat the crust. Not all fruit makes the verboten list–cooked apples or pears are OK. It’s mostly cooked berries and cherries that I don’t like.

Irrational???? Sigh. This is how my friends talk to me!

Todd

Brains aren’t safe to eat anymore, and I’m pretty sure they are illegal to sell. Still, I love some homemade hog’s head cheese. I’ll risk disease for it.

Matt

From the sound of it, maybe JT is attempting to ensure that the New York glitterati never travel to the South by serving them horrible food and claiming that it’s typical of the region?

As for Southern food that I can’t bring myself to eat: potato salad, anything with buttermilk gravy, and boiled vegetables other than corn or potatoes all qualify.

I maintain that chitlins are in fact offal rather than food.

Cynthia

OH! Add buttermilk in any form to my list! My sweet beloved pours buttermilk over his cereal. I can’t even eat in the same room with him. Just the thought makes my stomach turn…ewwww.

Fredric Koeppel

Don’t worry about the head cheese (or brawn or souse), Todd, that concoction typically does not contain the brains, eyes or ears of the head, which can be pig or calf, less often sheep or cow.

And Matt, you don’t have to MAINTAIN that chitlins should be classed as offal because they certainly are, offal being the viscera of a slaughtered animal. That category now typically includes heart, liver, kidneys, brains and so on. Still, this stuff is FOOD, as every peasant culture on earth would remind you, though squeamish Americans call them “organ meats” rather than offal, which suffers from its echo of “awful.” I mean, a lot of this stuff shows up in fine dining restaurants, not to mention soul food restaurants.

Matt

Ah, I’d always heard offal used synonymously with the intestines rather than just non-muscle organ meat. I draw the line at eating something that the animal’s waste has to be boiled or otherwise cleaned out of, though I’m fond of livers and am at least only disgusted by brains for reasons of texture rather than prior function.

Fred

Hollywood restaurant in Hollywood MS used to serve Rooster fries. I’ll let you guess……

Carole H

I still remember the old joke about how the Frenchman sneaked out of the dude ranch in the middle of the night when the cook had been serving various “fries” all wk. & announced French fries were going to be on the next day’s menu. Michael Ruhlman was on the Anthony Bourdain “No Reservations” segment from Cleveland this week, so now I know who he is. Someone mentioned him in Fredric’s post about offal meats.

Cynthia, my dad had a disgusting snack consisting of popcorn in buttermilk. I have heard of cornbread crumbled in buttermilk, & I think Jennifer even mentioned it at some point. But the sight of popcorn satured w/it is NOT a pretty one. Jennifer, I have one friend who won’t eat cooked apples, but she does enjoy peach, strawberry, & some of the other fruit cobbler & pie flavors. It’s all a matter of taste. I have to admit I’m trying to figure out the sweet potato aversion you have, tho. Maybe it’s the “stringy” part? My mother always made mashed sweet potatoes w/melted marshmallows on top (which some people run from!) & she would use a hand mixer to get them to the consistency she wanted. She claimed it got rid of the strings, which I would indeed she her lifting from the bowl, & made the pulp into a smooth puree.

Kristin

Carole H: I loooovvvvve popcorn with milk, though not buttermilk. There’s nothing better than hot buttered popcorn and cold milk on the couch with a movie.

Food I will not eat: Raw tomato, any type of melon(texture issue), boiled cabbage, any sweet potato preparation other than fries, liver and onions, creamed corn, beets, souse, liver cheese.

I’ve had chitlins fried and it wasn’t as bad as I thought it’d be. I was about 6 however. My grandparents were country folk, so brains and eggs were a common weekend breakfast. They say that back home it was commonly squirrel brains. I’ll eat squirrel, but I’m drawing the line at the little critter’s thinking parts. Funny, I’ll eat a squirrel before I’ll eat a raw tomato…

Fredric Koeppel

How much thinking does a squirrel do? Anyway, Kristi, that’s an interesting list of food phobias, drawing on pretty much all the food groups. Glad yer ecumenical.
Carole H: My father used to eat a big bowl of puffed wheat or puffed rice in the morning, never my favorite kind of cereal. But he would rummage through the kitchen finding things like stale cookies or the last piece of cake slowly getting stale or old donuts, ANYTHING, and then a few bananas and then he would crumble them all up in his cereal, add milk and that was his breakfast. It was a process guaranteed to have me saying “GACK!” and running from the table.

Carole H

Kristin…the question is whether you dump your popcorn INTO your milk until it’s a soggy lump & eat it all up together like Frederic’s dad. Fredric, I think that earns TWO gacks!

Jennifer, I have to admit that I didn’t know what you and Randal meant when you referred to prions. So as not to have to get you to explain or remain in the dark, I got into ask.com & found a very enlightening article. In 1977, my former mother-in-law had a malignant tumor removed from behind her ear & the dr. said it was the type that was fed by protein. It had escaped notice because this was in the time of pre-MRI technology. After surgery, during which they determined it had grown to the size of an egg & had caused an aneurysm, they put her on as close to a protein-free diet as they could. As you can well imagine, that was next to impossible. Now, I’m wondering if this was actually related to what we know now is a prions issue.

Kristin

No, it’s not all mixed together. Handful of hot popcorn, slurp of ice cold milk. Lather, rinse, repeat.

amypickle

still LMAO! Go on with your bad self, ms. biggs!

Leave a Reply