We enjoyed our meal at Assaggio — Italian for “to taste” — last night, but I want to say first that the restaurant is close to impossible to find. To say that Assaggio is located near Germantown Parkway and Macon Road is like saying that planet Earth is located near the sun and Pluto. The problem is that the restaurant, open since March, occupies a space in a new 
(and largely unoccupied) shopping center that’s behind or in back of or enclosed by two other perpendicular strip shopping centers that do sort of converge at Germantown Pkwy and Macon. In other words, Assaggio and its shopping center are invisible from any street.
My advice is that if you’re heading north on Germantown Pkwy, turn right on Macon, drive past the little strip shopping center where Bubble Tea Cafe is, turn right at the next street, aim at the over-sized American flag, turn right again when you get almost to the flagpole, go down a few yards and that’s where Assaggio will be. If you’re driving south on Germantown Pkwy, of course, you turn left on Macon.
Assaggio offers a short menu of Italian and semi-Italian fare that’s generally thoughtful and well-prepared. We started dinner — in an almost empty restaurant — with shrimp bruschetta and beef carpaccio. I thought the shrimp needed to be grilled or broiled, but LL pointed out how perfectly, barely, firmly cooked they were. The carpaccio, with that deep, ripe flavor of raw beef, really should have been sliced paper-thin, as tradition calls for; slightly bitter arugula and excellent shaved Parmesan were as they should be.
A beef filet, stuffed with Gorgonzola cheese and accompanied by roasted tomatoes, was — ready? — one of the most tender and flavorful hunks of beef I have ever eaten. Assaggio’s lasagna is so over-the-top that you can’t help laughing in wonder when it appears before you. Unusually, the lasagna, rich and irresistible, comes in a long strip, arranged diagonally across a wide plate, rather like the Great Wall, dripping with ricotta cheese, white bechamel sauce and bright red tomato sauce, ground beef and basil. We took home at least half, but saved room for a delicious wedge of ricotto cheesecake.
The dining room at Assaggio is so stark that it’s a little daunting. All the dark marble tables are round four-tops; all the chairs are tall of back and dark of color; the assemblage of dark massive furniture against pale yellow walls is disconcerting. The contemporary lighting fixtures are handsome and appropriate, but something needs to relieve the monotony of the decor, say painting the back wall a different color or putting up a few simple, discreet photographs.
Assaggio is at 8100 Macon Station. Hours are Monday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 11 p.m.; and Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Call 752-0056.
First Bites
Responses to “First Bite: Assaggio”
August 3rd, 2007 at 2:05 pm
Good review! I really enjoy it there. I like the simple decor, but I can see how it wouldn’t be to some people’s taste. The food though is consistently fantastic and the service is attentive & friendly without ever coming close to overbearing. You’re right about the location being a strange one I wonder if they’d change their decision if they had to locate all over again. I like the fact there’s always an owner there, it shows in the effort the people put into the whole experience. I don’t see that often enough
August 3rd, 2007 at 7:49 pm
Is this the Cordova Italian restaurant that caused such a controversial stir because it is owned by Steve Cooper the strip club impressario?
August 3rd, 2007 at 8:40 pm
FIG - Nope, this isn’t the restaurant that Steve Cooper is building. His place is on Fischer Steel (sp?), I think…and it hasn’t been completed yet. I haven’t been to Assaggio yet, but it sounds like it’s well worth the hassle of finding it!
August 3rd, 2007 at 11:55 pm
FIG - No, we’re not that restaurant, they’re not scheduled to be open for another month or two…and Cynthia’s right, they’re on Fischer Steel.
Thanks for the comments FK, most appreciated. The wall decor is something we’re working on, hopefully we’ll have a tasteful solution soon.
August 8th, 2007 at 11:35 am
As a frequent visitor to the US from London, England, I was very impressed with Assaggio because of its interesting Italian style food and the quite sophisticated ambience.
The prices of both the food and the wine are extremely reasonable and I wish them every success. I know they will succeed once they become more well known.
Good luck gentlemen!
August 8th, 2007 at 11:39 am
As a frequent visitor to the US from London, England, I was very impressed with Assaggio because of its interesting Italian style food, excellent service and the quite sophisticated ambience.
The prices of both the food and the wine are extremely reasonable and I wish them every success. I know they will succeed once they become more well known.
Good luck gentlemen!
August 8th, 2007 at 11:43 am
RE; Assaggio’s Italian resturant: I and my family recently enjoyed an exceptional evening of fine dining at Assaggio’s. I do not recall a time when the food, it’s presentaion, or the personnel service by the chef and staff were any better. I highly recommend this resturant to anyone who enjoys great food with generous portions. Yes, it is a little hard to find the first time, but don’t give up as I know you will enjoy it as much as we did!
August 8th, 2007 at 12:03 pm
I’ve dined at Assaggio twice while visiting Memphis, and plan to go back during future visits. The food is fantastic, and presented nicely. I like that it’s not your typical Italian chain-type cuisine, where most everything is dripping with cheese, and tastes a lot the same. Assaggio is good-for-you dining, but oh, so good! And then, after eating well, you need not feel so guilty about indulging in the yummy desserts…the Creme Brule is outstanding!
August 8th, 2007 at 12:31 pm
We had a very nice evening at Assaggio’s restaurant. The food was excellent and the service was fantastic.
August 8th, 2007 at 12:42 pm
My evening at Assaggio’s was a really fantastic experience. Being very pickey about my pasta and my steaks, I was pleased with both. I had the pasta and my husband had the aged ribeye. It had just enough spices that I didn’t need any A1 sauce, which is a usual necessity for me. It was perfect. The martini’s were good as well as the wine and the service. Assaggio’s is a place to go and be taken care of for the evening. Will be back many times!
August 8th, 2007 at 1:29 pm
My husband and I love to dine at Assaggio. It’s wonderful to have found a place that offers high quality food, service and consistency.
August 8th, 2007 at 3:32 pm
I had the pleasure of dining at Assaggio with my family on their opening night a few months ago. The food was absolutely amazing - everything about it. When I was in New York City, I ate at a restaurant where I didn’t want to start eating my entree because it looked so perfect on the plate and once I did start eating it, I couldn’t put my fork down! Assaggio went above and beyond even NYC dining - the presentation, the atmosphere, the service, the taste - everything. Since opening night, I have been in there a couple more times and everytime I have been so impressed. You can tell that the chef puts everything he has into making each dish perfect for the guest who will be enjoying it and the owners truly desire for each guest to leave knowing they just experienced the best meal and dining experience they have ever had. I will definitely be back whenever I get a chance.
August 10th, 2007 at 10:26 am
www.assaggioonline.com, though the menus on the site don’t include some recents changes in the line-up.
August 11th, 2007 at 4:09 pm
Lori - menus will be updated tomorrow on the website, we had some connection problems this week…sorry for the delay!
August 14th, 2007 at 7:51 pm
My experience at ASSAGGIO was a very delightful one. We were meet by a very charming hostess, guiding us into the alluring; seductive lit dining room. Starting with Pollo con Fig, tender chicken strips top with fig preserves, then on to the entrée, the fabulous Gorgonzola Filet served with roasted tomatoes. The stuffed ribeye was so tender I could almost cut it with a fork and the taste was out of this world. My husbands tried the Aged Ribeye with small potatoes, both tasting fresh and seasoned to perfection. For dessert a slice of Ricotta Cheesecake that everyone just has to try. The service was impeccable and pricing was reasonable. I am looking forward to my next visit to the area. As for the location, I think in time everyone will find it and keep returning. I think the deco was just wonderful, no clutter on the walls, a beautiful shade of yellow, simple and to the point. The marble top tables and high back black leather chairs were not only serviceable but also very appealing to the eye. I also like the fact that one of the owners are always available, they were both their on our visit, very nice guys. Good luck and keep up the great work.
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