Quite a savory discussion in the comments below on the subject of salt, a seasoning that’s near to my heart.
Lately, I’ve been playing around with using a bunch of different salts with the idea of creating a more complex flavor… like a winemaker blends in a little merlot with cabernet. I feel a little like a mad scientist throwing in a pinch of Baja sea salt with a dash of Argentinian salt and a shake or two of salt from Hawaii. (Which gets its pale orange hue from the red soil of Kauai… a sight to see for sure. Gosh, I wish I was there right now!)
Last night, I worked the salt layering for a pretty tasty French onion soup. I used the bones from my Thanksgiving prime rib to make beef stock… in a cooking course I took at the Culinary Institute of America, I learned not to salt the stock until the end of the cooking process…. then you can reduce the stock to concentrate the flavors without coming up with something way salty. I enlisted the help of my nephew Brandon to cut up a whole bunch of sweet onions… sauteed those until they were soft and caramelized and added a generous couple of pinches of this gorgeous Kosher salt and cracked black pepper mix that a very nice person gifted me.
Those went into the seasoned stock and the final salt note was the shredded parmesano reggiano (from Fino’s) on top. Now that I’m writing it, it sounds like a big hassle, but it wasn’t. Especially with company in the kitchen.
Where’s the best place in/around Memphis to buy gourmet salt? Can you taste a difference? Does any restaurant make beef stock from scratch? (And are they willing to show us the bones?)
Responses to “I love salt, part XIV”
November 30th, 2005 at 10:26 am
Penzey’s has a good selection of salts.
How does Fino’s parm compare to other options (Mantia’s, Fresh Market)?
Encore and any other restaurant serving > $20 entrees or french onion soup better be making beef stock.
November 30th, 2005 at 10:37 am
I ate at Encore Sunday night and none of the entrees are more than $20. Soup du Pistou was an excellent starter as was my cassoulet entree. Cassoulet, braised beef short ribs and other entrees are perfect fall and winter fare and the prices, not to mention the portions, can’t be beat. I’ll be going back soon.
November 30th, 2005 at 10:43 am
Leslie, Penzey’s also has a good selection of pepper as well. Try the “Whole Special Extra Bold Black Peppercorns”. Quite a kick.
I know Rick Farmer makes his demi glace from scratch, so I would assume that he also makes his beef stock.
November 30th, 2005 at 1:01 pm
I agree about Penzey’s. I particularly like their lemon pepper blend, which has some of the bold peppercorn flavor in it. You can definitely tell a difference in their blend & some of the blends like Nature’s Seasons & Kroger All-Purpose Seasoning, which I also like.
November 30th, 2005 at 10:58 pm
Go to Mantia’s for good gourmet salts. They’ve got Maldon, Maine, and Cerulean sea salts. Yum. The Viking store downtown has gray salt and hawaiian salts, and all kinds of other salt. Lulu grille makes veal stock from scratch. I’ve seen the bubbling cauldron of bones and vegetables with my own eyes.
December 7th, 2005 at 9:08 am
Sorry to get off subject, but I saw Leslie’s mention of fresh shaved parmesan from Fino’s and I had to ask. Does anyone know where I can get a good-sized, hand-cracked chunk of parm here in town? Even more random, I’m looking good baguettes…



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